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Bingka Pandan topped with sesame seeds from Kuih Cafe, Bánh Kẹp Lá Dứa (Pandan Waffle) from Bạn Bè and Bánh Bò Nướng (Vietnamese Honeycake) from Banh by Lauren. Photographed by Fujio Emura. Set Design by Grace Beck.Thanks to entrepreneurs like Park and Hồ-Kane, that lineage is finding new expression in the New York area, where the full spectrum of Southeast Asian cuisine has historically been underrepresented compared to the West Coast and parts of the South. At Bạn Bè, which opened a brick-and-mortar outpost in July following a string of über-successful pop-ups, pandan-infused confections like butter cookies and pandan-coconut frappes channel its founder’s Texas upbringing. “[My] favorite early memories of pandan are having it in fresh, warm soybean milk and in bánh bò hấp, a steamed ‘honeycomb’ rice cake,” Hồ-Kane says. “The green wash of color was so beautiful to me… It still is!”
Within the upswell of new restaurants specializing in regional Southeast Asian cuisines, pandan has become a recurring theme. Kuih Cafe, which became the city’s first Malaysian dessert shop when it opened on Eldridge Street in February of 2020, uses hand-pressed pandan extract for its nonpareil pastries (see: kuih seri muka, a blue-green sticky rice cake topped with pandan custard). “It’s a nostalgic feeling,” says Barnny Lim, business partner of chef and owner Veronica Gan. “The reason [Veronica] started baking kuih was that sometimes she’d feel homesick…We’d go to Malaysian restaurants or markets and find very few [dessert] options.” Despite a temporary closure following the cafe’s ill-timed launch, Gan’s handiwork continues to draw lines down the block.Pandan Jelly Flowers from Bạn Bè.
Photographed by Fujio Emura. Set Design by Grace Beck.The latter category—desserts—has fueled pandan crazes past and present. In the mid-20th century, according to Saveur, a widely circulated Better Homes and Gardens recipe spawned an international sensation: pandan chiffon cake. In present-day New York, that kelly-green sponge continues to make waves: At the Ha’s Đặc Biệt pop-up last winter, baker-in-residence Mina Park of Ninety Nine Cakes struck a chord with a riff on the pandan snack-cakes of her native Atlanta’s Vietnamese supermarkets. “It was the one cake I kept on the menu for the whole three-month pop-up,” she says. “To have that kind of staying power…I think it meant something.” To Park, the meaning comes down to more than taste alone. “Pandan [is] a flavor I’m always thinking of—it’s always in the back of my mind,” she says. “My eyes were always drawn to that neon green hue…That’s where my nostalgia is.” For some, the gestalt of pandan goes even further back than childhood. “My absolute favorite aspect of cooking with pandan is that it allows me to commune with my auntie ancestors,” says Doris Hồ-Kane of Cobble Hill’s Bạn Bè, dubbed New York’s first Vietnamese-American bakery. “I become a part of our unique food lineage.”
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