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Tanya Bush: Well, cake has enormous symbolic power in culture and ritual and art, but for me personally, I’m a baker, so I think about dessert and cake all the time. I eat it a lot, and I watch other people consume it. I think that a lot of people see dessert as an unnecessary indulgence, or something without substance, and I was interested in probing it more critically and thinking about sweets as something significant. There are fertility traditions and gender roles and rituals around cake, so I felt that it sort of could accommodate broad exploration. It’s also pleasurable pursuit—it’s something that is highly consumable and enormously symbolic, and that interplay really excited me. Aliza Abarbanel: The genesis of this project, for us, is that Tanya and I organized a big community bake sale at the end of last year benefiting two different mutual aid groups here in New York. There were 14 different bakers, so we spent a lot of time assembling pastry boxes and running things down Bowery, and we had a lot of time to talk about cake in that moment, because there was a lot of cake happening at the bake sale. That’s when we started talking about how it’d be fun to make a zine to kind of explore the significance of cake in different ways, and some of the people who participated in the mutual aid bake sale also have work that’s featured.
Pearl Jones, who contributed an essay and a recipe for Better Than Sex Cake, which is a popular cake in the Mormon community that she grew up in, contributed cookies to the bake sale. Mehreen Karim, who did one of the cakes that we shot as our “sexy centerfolds,” contributed to the bake sale, and the designer [Noah Emrich] who made the flyer for the bake sale was our designer and art director for the zine. So we did start with some people from that and then kind of reached out to our networks that we know either personally or professionally—to give them this prompt of “sexy cake” and see what sounded interesting to them—and just kind of worked from there. Because this is our first-ever publication and it’s a pretty bootstrapped, DIY, self-funded endeavor, we thought it was best to kind of start from there and then work outwards.
It’s been a banner few years for cake, with pandemic baking giving way to a new trend in pastry that is decidedly weird and more than a little messy. While cake might once have been the luxe stuff of Marie Antoinette and debutante cotillions, today’s cakes are all about a D.I.Y. aesthetic and an in-your-face vibe, and there’s no better distillation of that approach than Tanya Bush and Aliza Abarbanel’s new zine Sexy Cake. The baker and food writer compiled recipes, essays, illustrations, poems, and photographs to ponder the meaning of cake from every possible angle, including a photo essay featuring iced confections from the likes of Pretty Shitty Cakes, Mehreen Karim, and Gigi’s Little Kitchen, a history of erotic bakeries in New York City, and an interview with the artist and sex worker Lindsay Dye about her former career as a cake-sitter (yes, it’s exactly what it sounds like). This week, Vogue spoke to Bush and Abarbanel about their views on cake as creative fuel, their zine-making process, and the cult of femininity in relation to dessert.
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