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Like everything else we receive, the Atelier des Matières would analyze the jacket, which would then be disassembled, and its elements separated so that they could be recycled through the appropriate—and meticulously chosen—channels. The Atelier des Matières could, for example, turn a tweed into a single thread that would be used for new materials. When you start an operation like this one, it’s not out of economic interest. Obviously, it’s important to have Chanel’s support: We depend on their R&D innovation, their materials, and the company’s whole ecosystem. But Chanel products or seconds are their decision, that’s not our department. And we’re also not just working for Chanel. Right now, it’s about making the effort and taking responsibility. I believe deeply in engaging in debate.
They work at these little islands where they receive the finished products. It’s a place of separation and new beginnings so we really focused on quality of life, through different table heights, visual engagement, and how to respect a product, deconstruct it, and analyze it. Not every client wants the same thing, so we adapt accordingly. What’s important for us is increasing the percentage of upcycling, which is different for every client. Progress is key. There are clients who ask us for a closed circuit: they give us the products, we valorize them and then give back the separate elements. Others want an open circuit: they give us
products and we make dormant and valorized materials available for Hyères finalists, for example. They come to 19M in Paris, and we let them go through the materials and choose freely, there’s no limit. Now that the relationships are there, they’ll continue to have access to our materials. Maybe someday, but right now we like the idea of having these in-person sessions with designers and our clients. I think the work we’ve been doing for three years has given us a certain maturity. Last year, I was invited to participate in a conference at Hyères, but we weren’t ready. What’s certain is that we want to start a conversation and present an offer. But I came to Hyères for the energy, the inventiveness, to see this young generation of creatives. They took materials and brought things out that I’d never seen before. For them, handcrafting and CSR [Corporate Social Responsibility] is just embedded. That’s the way to look at fashion, and I was fascinated by what they’ve done.
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