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Chamberlain takes that trust seriously. Momentarily sounding like a very young, very cool dermatologist, she praises the benefits of clarifying chemical exfoliants, plumping hyaluronic acid, and refining retinol from a place of experience as someone who is still intimately familiar with adolescent breakouts. The significance of representing these kind of performance-based products versus, say, the neon eyeliner sticks and star-shaped pimple patches that populate many of her peers’ pages, is not lost on the creator—nor is it lost on Lancôme as the concept of “big screen” talent is redefined by the internet. “This is a fully different experience,” admits Chamberlain. While riffing on the topic of “skinfluencers” over the last of our drinks, her eyes light up as she reveals her boyfriend, who is rumored to be musician Tucker Pillsbury, is a skin care guy. “He recently let me give him a facial for the first time,” she laughs. I ask if he listens to Dewy Dudes, the skin care podcast hosted by Emilio Quezada Ibañez and Evan Shinn; intrigued, Chamberlain promises she’ll pass along the recommendation, and, whether she’s being genuine or just using her preternatural ability to sell anyone on anything in a way that feels genuine, I believe her.
Any beauty obsessive who knows their facial essences from their CC Creams is well-versed in K-Beauty, the innovation-led product explosion that has made its way from Korea across the globe. In recent years, J-Beauty from Japan and even A-Beauty from Australia have joined the industry’s growing export alphabet, offering ample opportunities for inter-continental product discovery. But “C-Beauty” has been a slower burn abroad. At home in China, however, business is booming. Local beauty brands coming out of Beijing, Shanghai, and elsewhere have gained nationwide prominence thanks to a deep commitment to skincare, makeup and fragrance from the country’s largely digitally-native population with a high fluency in mobile interfaces. Many of these products find overnight success on the likes of TMall or WeChat, where most Chinese people spend their days scrolling on their phones. But just as many of them are never heard from again when their formulas, branding, and marketing fall short of some very exacting expectations.
So, what’s the recipe for success that will take these local heroes beyond their borders? It will likely come down to the right blend of ancient Chinese traditions and healing ingredients and a fiercely future-facing approach to formulation. Here, in honor of Lunar New Year, the Vogue China beauty team has selected 13 local products to keep on your radar as we head into the Year of the Rabbit and beyond. Biohyalux, which is owned by Bloomage Biotechnology Corporation Limited—one of the world’s largest suppliers of hyaluronic acid—dips into its own supply for the excellent HA Barrier Conditioning Single Use Essence that combines hyaluronic acid and other biotech-backed ingredients, such as ceramides and the pollution-defending ectoine, to support and protect the skin barrier.
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